Harrod's $11,000 Coffee: Is It Worth the Price?
SAN DIEGO (TheStreet) -- It makes three and four-dollar cups of coffee at Starbucks (SBUX) look like a bargain.
Harrods, the renowned British luxury department store, began selling the world's most expensive coffee recently: Terra Nera, at $225 to $11,000 a bag not even in the same league as Starbucks, or any other coffee for that matter.
Grown in Quechua, in the Peruvian Andes, Terra Nera is made from coffee berries fermented through a civet cat's digestive tract. The process allows enzymes to alter the beans, creating the coffee's flavor. Each year only 45 kg of the exclusive coffee beans are cultivated.
But some coffee experts are skeptical about whether Terra Nera is worth the steep investment, and they have plenty of other suggestions for luxury coffee seekers.
"I've tasted coffee made by that process and wasn't impressed. It's more of a novelty," says Timothy Borrego, manager of Barismo, an Arlington, Mass., coffee shop with a national reputation that's focused on estate coffees and manual brewing methods. "You have to be extremely careful. With specialty coffee it's easy to pay for a coffee that goes through all the special processing and could still taste boring."
Ken Davids, editor of the Coffee Review website, has studied coffee processed through animals, including monkeys and civets, and had even harsher words for Terra Nera.
"There are exceptional coffees out there at prices that people think are outrageous -- like $40 a pound," Davids says. "And some of them, not these animal coffees, are exceptional for the variety of tree they come from. But this particular coffee is just a classic piece of outrageous marketing."
Borrego and Davids say that when it comes to high-end coffees there's a variety of factors raising the price and factors that affect taste, such as whether the coffee was processed cleanly at the country of origin and whether it's available only in small batches.
High-end coffees are also seasonal, varying by crop year, producer, even by the hillside where they're grown, Davids says.
"Someone looking to be a super connoisseur and out-brag other connoisseurs would not pick one of these animal-processed coffees. They would chose some of the very best, which either comes from a rare variety of tree -- the Gesha tree -- or there are just particularly fine coffees, from anywhere, made in very small lots," Davids says.